Hi this is my next good one for you 2001 Component-shop Crownhill Associates DIP Micro Farnell Fast Components Futurlec FTDI Chip LED Bulbs Paltronics Phenoptix Rapid Online Toby Electronics Warburtech http://www.warburtech.com/. Hi this is my next good one for you here you can find a lot of useful links about projects,tutorials etc about ATMEL AVR http://extremeelectronics.co.in/avr-projects/avr-project-relay-timer-with-atmega8-avr-mcu/. How it works Laser printers and photocopiers use plastic toner, not ink, to draw images. Toner is the black powder that ends up on your clothes and desk when replacing the printer cartridge. Being plastics, toner is resistant to etching solutions used for making PCBs - if only you could get it on copper! Modifying a printer for working with copper is out of question, but you can work around it with the toner-transfer principle. Like most plastics, toner melts with heat, turning in a sticky, glue-like paste.

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So why not print on paper as usual, place the sheet face-down on PCB copper, and melt toner on copper applying heat and pressure? Almost right.

Right now you got paper toner-glued to PCB copper. Last step is to find a way to remove paper leaving toner on the copper, and you’re done. I must credit putting glossy, inkjet photo paper in his laser printer. He found that the glossy coating dissolves in water. As most of the toner does not penetrate the glossy surface, you can easily remove the paper support with water: the gloss dissolves and you can remove paper. Clever, isn’t it?

Unfortunately, the kind of paper used by Thomas is being replaced by new, improved, WATERPROOF (!) photo paper. This is good for your photo prints, but doesn't work anymore for PCBs.

While searching for more information on the subject, I found a newsgroup thread that suggested replacing expensive inkjet photo paper with glossy paper recycled from magazines. Magazines use ink, not toner, for printing, so previous printing shouldn’t affect the process. Another great idea! I tried it and worked so well that I decided to spread the word.

Read on for a complete tutorial and my hands-on tips. Finding the right paper The perfect paper should be: glossy, thin, and cheap. The kind of stuff that looks lustrous and shiny when new, but so cheap it quickly turns into pulp when wet.

If you ever found a mailbox full of squashy mail on a rainy day, you already know the answer: paper used for most mail advertising and magazines fits perfectly the requisites. I tried pages from the free advertising magazine IEN,catalogues, travel agent’s brochures, TV programme magazine, and all worked well. I don’t expect great difference using paper from most magazines. As a rule of thumb, if humidity in your bathroom turns your magazine in bad shape, it should be OK. If the humidity on your fingertips is enough to feel a sticky sensation while touching its gloss coating, it should be OK. Feel free to experiment: almost any glossy magazine paper will work. I like thin paper over thick one, and prefer recycled paper over new paper.

Paper preparation I discard pages heavily printed, preferring pages with normal-size text on white background. Although ink usually does not transfer on the PCB, heavy print of headlines sometimes accumulate so much ink that some gets on copper. Cut the paper to a size suitable for your printer. Try to get straight, clean cuts, as jagged borders and paper dust are more prone to clog printer mechanism. An office cutter is ideal, but also a blade-cutter and a steady hand work well. Be careful to remove all staples, bindings, gadget glue or similar stuff, as they can damage printer’s drum and mechanisms. Printer setup.

Laser printers are not designed for handling thin, cheap paper, so we must help them feeding the sheets manually instead of using the paper tray. Selecting a straight paper path minimizes the chances of clogging. This is usually achieved setting the printer as if it were printing on envelopes. You want to put as much toner on paper as possible, so disable “toner economy modes” and set printer properties to the maximum contrast and blackness possible. You want to print your PCB to exact size, so disable any form of scaling/resizing (e.g. “fit to page”).

If your printer driver allows, set it to “center to page” as it helps to get the right position using a non-standard size sheet. How to cut raw material PCB material is fibreglass like, and a trick to cut it effortlessly is to score a groove with a blade cutter or a glass cutter. The groove weakens the board to the point that bending it manually breaks it along the groove line. This method is applicable only when cutting the whole board along a line that goes from side to side, that is you can’t cut a U or L shaped board with it. For small boards, I lock the PCB material in a vice, aligning vice edge and cut line. I use an all-aluminium vice which is soft and doesn’t scratch copper, if you use a steel vice protect copper surface with soft material. Using the vice as a guide, I score BOTH board sides with a blade cutter (be careful) or another sharp, hardened tool (e.g.

A small screwdriver tip). Ensure to scratch edge-to-edge.

Repeat this step 5-6 times on each side. Bend the board.

If groove is deep enough, the board will break before reaching a 30 degrees bend. It will break quite abruptly so be prepared and protect your hands with gloves. To make paper alignment easier, cut a piece of PCB material that is larger (at least 10mm/0,39 inch for each side) than the final PCB. Cleaning the board for transfer It is essential that the copper surface is spotlessly clean and free from grease that could adverse etching. To remove oxide from copper surface, I use the abrasive spongy scrubs sold for kitchen cleaning. It’s cheaper than ultra-fine sandpaper and reusable many times.

Metallic wool sold for kitchen cleaning purposes also works. Thoroughly scrub copper surface until really shiny. Rinse and dry with a clean cloth or kitchen paper.

TIP: '.I had a bar of 'Solvol' soap in the kitchen cupboard, This stuff is like normal soap but with sand mixed in with it or something. Mechanics and so on often use it as its really good at cleaning the grease and stuff off your hands. It is like soap with built-in sandpaper.

Not much effort with some Solvol soap cleaned copper right up.' Turn the iron to its maximum heat (COTTON position) and turn off steam, if present.

While the iron warms up, position the materials on the table. Don’t work on an ironing board as its soft surface makes it difficult to apply pressure and keep the PCB in place. Protect table surface with flat, heat-resistant material (e.g. Old magazines) and place the board on top, copper face up. Lock the board in place with double-adhesive tape.

Position the PCB printout over the copper surface, toner down, and align paper and board corners. Lock the paper with scotch tape along one side only. This way, you can flip the paper in and out instantly. The optimal way to etch is keeping the PCB horizontal and face-down (and possibly stirring). This way dissolved copper gets rapidly dispersed in the solution by gravity. Stirring keeps its concentration even, so the solution close to the PCB does not saturate and etching proceeds quicker.

Unfortunately it is not easy to keep the PCB in place in an highly corrosive acid. This hanger is my best attempt to solve the problem. I made it with plastic-insulated copper wire. The wire must have a rigid core, but must be also easy enough to adapt to the board by hand without tools. Core diameter of 1 to 2mm is fine. Give it the form of an “arm” (the handle) ending with 4 “fingers”. There are many alternatives for etching liquids, and you can use the one that suits your taste.

I use ferric chloride (the brown stuff): it’s cheap, can be reused many times, and doesn’t require heating. Actually, moderate heating can speed up etching, but I find it reasonably fast also at room temperature (1015 minutes). The down side of this stuff is that it’s incredibly messy. It permanently stains everything it gets in contact with: not only clothes or skin (never wear your best clothes when working with it!), but also furniture, floor tiles, tools, everything.

It is concentrated enough to corrode any metal – including your chrome-plated sink accessories. Even vapours are highly corrosive: don’t forget the container open or it will turn any tool or metallic shelf nearby into rust. For etching, I place the container on the floor (some scrap cardboard or newspaper to protect the floor from drops). I fit the board on the hanger, and submerge the PCB.

Stir occasionally by waving the hanger. Rinse the board with plenty, plenty, plenty of water I store the etching solution in the same plastic box used for etching. When the job is done I just put the hermetic lid on. To further minimize risks of leakage, I put the container inside the bigger one I use for rinsing, put the second lid, and store it in a safe place. Disclaimer: These are dangerous chemicals. Always read the labels that come with the solution, handle it wearing protective gloves and goggles, keep windows open, don’t inhale the fumes.

Finishing touches. Hi this is my next good one for you. The AcerMC Monte-Carlo event generator is dedicated for generation of the Standard Model background processes in pp collisions at the LHC. Software for model building and collider phenomenology. PDF.

Package for evaluation of Feynman diagrams, integration over multi-particle phase space and event generation. Elementary Particles Simulation using Java Technology.An application made for educational purposes. A stand-alone particle physics Monte-Carlo simulation package. It is being used as a simulation tool in a number of experiments. The Fermilab Software Tools Program (Fermitools) aims to provide useful tools to the community.

A wide range of tools are available, and all are free. Mathematica package for generation and visualization of Feynman diagrams and amplitudes. Mathematica package for algebraic calculations in elementary particle physics, focusing on Feynman diagram calculations. Free C library for drawing Feynman diagrams.

The output is in PostScript, which can be used in TeX or printed directly. FeynFig is a program to generate feynman diagrams in xfig format. Drawing Feynman diagrams with LaTeX and Metafont. Virtual organization involved in the development of open-source software for data analysis and visualization, primarily for use in high energy, nuclear and astro- physics.

A Monte Carlo package for simulating hadron emission reactions with interfering gluons. Also includes a list of some 'competitor' generators. A C-based Analysis Tool for the HERMES experiment at the DESY laboratory in Hamburg, Germany. MC particle numbering convention, endorsed by the Particle Data Group. An event generator for a large number of physics processes. The site contains the latest source, the official manual and a short write-up describing PYTHIA's status with respect to the physics.

A physics event generator for linear collider studies. It includes beamstrahlung, initial state radiation, hadronization, and full treatment of polarization effects. Extension of the Mathematica packages, FeynCalc and FeynArts. Persint OpenGL Visualization for ATLAS Muon Analysis. Software used to visualize the reconstruction of muon traces. Provides a common output format for Monte Carlo events so that event generators and other simulators can easily be compared. It also provides a set of routines which convert Herwig, Jetset, Isajet, or QQ events to and from the standard HEP event format.

This package provides a number of useful features for typesetting research papers. It is an extension to Plain Tex. An object oriented framework for large scale data analysis. ROOT is a C replacement of the popular PAW program developed at CERN. cfortran.h is a single header file that allows you to easily use fortran code in c and c. Very useful for using HBOOK and other CERNLIB code in new c applications.

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Apple plans to announce updated iPad Pros with USB-C ports, a 13-inch laptop meant to replace the MacBook Air, and long-awaited updates to the Mac Mini during its event Tuesday morning,. Just about all of this has been rumored before, but Bloomberg’s Mark Gurman is usually the definitive name when it comes to nailing exactly what we’ll see on event day, and with a few days to go, we now have those answers. Gurman confirms rumors that the iPad Pro — seemingly both sizes of it — will be getting a redesign, giving it a nearly edge-to-edge display, Face ID, and a USB-C port. That’ll be a huge deal, as it’ll mark the first time that Apple has traded out its exclusive Lightning port in favor of the increasingly universal USB-C standard. The new iPads will lack a home button, according to the report, and they’ll gain an Apple-made graphics chip, something that’s never been in an iPad before. Related Perhaps even more exciting is news of a MacBook Air successor with a high-res screen. It’s still not clear exactly what we’re in for — whether it’ll be updated parts in the Air’s body, a brand new take on the Air, or just an alternate version of the MacBook.

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But it’s clear that some kind of much-needed update is coming. Bloomberg says it’ll have a 13-inch screen, which means that at the very least, it’ll be different than today’s MacBook. Mac Mini fans will also find their immense (and honestly questionable) patience rewarded, as the much-neglected PC will get a spec update for the first time since 2014. Bloomberg says it’ll get new processors and some other features meant for pro users. Updated iMacs and iMac Pros are also in the works, as is a processor bump for the 12-inch MacBook, but it’s not clear if those will all be ready for the event.